Wednesday, April 23, 2014
Diary of a Cruise Weather
This weather is a mess. The spring 2017 men s wear programs are almost over, for goodness sake, and women’s wear is still in the middle of cruise 2016/2017.
Cruise? you ask. Huh? Precisely. Cruise a.k.a. prespring, a.k.a. resort are the clothes that show up in November and stay on racks through March and sometimes even April. The shows began May 3 with Chanel, an extravaganza in Havana that included 86 looks, some tourism and some controversy, and they extend through next month yes, into the couture fall 2016-17 weather.
There is no cohesion to the cruise collections. They include summer-weight clothes as well as fur; mega-shows (Chanel, Vuitton, Dior, Gucci) as well as little presentations; some brand names (Chanel, among others) that want to advertise and some (ProenzaSchouler, C line) that wear t, at least till it strikes stores.
So I gave up aiming to understand it. Rather, I thought I’d take you along for what is always a somewhat approximate trip. In the end we each pack our own bags.
Post-Chanel, which I viewed by means of livestream (the concept of taking a trip to an exotic destination for a single show being the kind of seduction that best serves customers, not critics), the emails are beginning to pile up, noting discussions in far-flung corners of New York. I seem like TippiHedren being swarmed by the birds.
Today is Oscar de la Renta day. The label does a series of minishows in its display room with the creative director Peter Copping, in front of 20 to 30 individuals at a time. This weather, there were 33 looks, which Mr. Copping states were inspired by the idea of patchwork, translated through a very luxe lens. Think about child florals and tweeds and jacquards; lace and plumes. That contrast, between a casual idea and a fancy expression, practically summarized the state of mind of the collection: classic (and classy) de la Rentaisms with the packing taken out.
Attempting to monitor who is doing exactly what, I email Burberry, which has actually had little discussions in the past. The company states it is not doing anything this year because it is rejecting the concept of weathers altogether and has rejiggered its schedule to reveal guys wear and women’s use together in September and sell the clothing instantly after it reveals them.
Stella McCartney, who utilized to be popular for her cruise fun-fairs, has actually chosen to reveal the collection in November in London, before it goes on sale. Mary Katrantzou is taking her collection on the road to New York, but they are not allowing me to inform you about the clothing prior to they are in stores on discomfort of Great Brand Excommunication. (Spoiler: they are joyful.).
Diane von Furstenberg s office contacts us to inform me that because it simply hired Jonathan Saunders as its first chief imaginative policeman, it isn’t having a resort presentation, because he won’t have had a chance to put his stamp on the collection.
On May 31 and June 2, Dior and Gucci hold their shows in Britain (in Blenheim Palace and Westminster Abbey, respectively). I enjoy them all on my computer and try to run the numbers on what it costs to bring an entire fashion show to an exotic location. The brands state it is worth it.
Back in New York, Narciso Rodriguez is at 9:30 a.m.: Lexington and 16th Street. He is interested in splicing i.e., cutting in ever more stealthily simple, however actually extremely made complex, ways.
Across town on 11th Avenue, some Brits have touched down: Christopher Kane (sci-fi pansies, consisting of huge lace mitochondrial petal blobs inset arbitrarily on rainbow-like pleated skirts) and Peter Pilotto (haute peasant, with technical taffeta and Peruvian rug embroidery).
Calling this cruise is an error. It must be called location. Michael Kors is doing his variation of stand-up the cruise collection explanation monologue. The destinations he wants? Gstaad, Mustique, Palm Beach, Palm Springs or location God forbid it’s snowing and I require a new wool coat.
Some more of his morsels: A fox wellie is the type of standard boot every girl needs. We put on to sell swimwear individuals swim in. These are swimwear individuals use in party circumstances. It’s the new mixed drink dress. He is feeling graphics, especially polka dots and grommets. How do you cut through the winter season doldrums? Graphic is the way to go.
Marc Jacobs, fresh from his CFDA women s use designer of the year award, thinks 1980s MTV is the way to go, in 54 super bright, collage-happy appearances. The program was expected to begin at 9 a.m. sharp, however during the awards event the night in the past, we kept getting emailed updates: possibly 9:30, in fact 10. Think you can do that when you win one for the sixth time.
At Suno, Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis went on a trip around Africa with a nod to Edwardiana by means of plaid linen and eyelet, jeans and shirting over embroidered with florals, huge off-the-shoulder ruffles paired with generous trousers and full skirts.
At Coach, Stuart Vevers was feeling Felix the Cat (the brand name made an offer with DreamWorks to use the image), including him to the rest of the label s building blocks: grassy field gowns, motorcycle coats, shearling and dinosaurs, used this time instead of Izod alligators on cardigans. It’s really not that thought-through, Mr. Vevers said.
That’s the thing about cruise: Ask most designers exactly what it is about and they say: Clothes you wear. That sounds ridiculous, since all clothes are in theory clothing you use.
Public School is not in fact doing cruise: It is integrating men’s and women’s wear, and spring and pre-spring respectively. It is making a statement about the style system and the political system. We need leaders is spray-painted on a wall at the end of the program.
The wall is obviously supposed to represent false monoliths. The program is probably supposed to represent the future, or the clothes of the rebelling masses. Primarily it feels confused, though the pieces themselves were pretty basic: dystopian customizing and designer anoraks, equipped with slashes and asymmetry, accentuated with police-tape yellow and a melting flower photo print.
It’s good not to constantly do something brand-new, says Joseph Altuzarra, in his studio throughout his mini-show. It’s easier to clean up that method, he says.
It’s the Monday after the Friday before, which is to state: after the Moschino show in Los Angeles, which was a combined resort/men s use show (with tickets sold to the general public for approximately $400, sticker price), along with models (Miranda Kerr, Chanel Iman), stars (Katy Perry, Caitlyn Jenner) and 1960s animation psychedelia (miniskirts, mirror mosaics, flower power and animal print).
Now Valentino remains in the former Warhol Factory on Union Square. Like Chanel, it is having a Cuba moment, though its Cuba is a Cuba of the mind. The designers Maria GraziaChiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli were thinking of the method Cuba is frozen in the creativity, which led them to their own past, which led them to red, a nod to the preferred color of the label s creator, but in cleaned brocade and silk to provide the clothes the soft focus of age, plus Tropicana bomber jackets and skirts and gowns encrusted in wooden micro-beads and, well, a lot more.
The Factory is jammed with jersey and lace and camouflage and khaki. The work is eye boggling. Designers invest a great deal of time grumbling nowadays about their lack of time, however these two seem enlivened by it.
Rag & Bone is in its studio in the meatpacking district. Marcus Wainwright, the co-chief executive/designer, is there, waxing laconic on the stripy knits, tuxedo track trousers, airy button-downs and shearlings that are the label s signatures. David Neville, the co-chief executive, is not there. This doesn’t appear odd, since Marcus is in charge of the design studio. When they reveal 2 days later that Mr. Neville is leaving the company, it unexpectedly appears complete of portent.
Carolina Herrera, in her 35th year in company, is living the fairy tale. Her resort collection is a charming confection of gleaming tulle cocktail and evening gowns in tones from nude to graphic black-and-white plus a few denim numbers for day and a great pair of large peach taffeta trousers to wear with a white cashmere sweatshirt striped in sequins. Coincidentally, or probably not, Mrs. Herrera has a brand-new design group Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim of Monse and they did even more-exaggerated trousers in their own collection, along with khaki coat dresses and bandanna frocks twisted, pulled and otherwise sliced up in unforeseen angles.
In any case, Mrs. Herrera isn’t around to discuss her role as resort s fairy godmother because she’s at a med spa in Austria with her hubby. Too bad. I might have utilized a magic wand to transport me to different shores: On June 29, Creatures of the Wind, based in New York, is having a resort show at Spencer House in London.
I know we sanctuary t in fact gotten here yet in real time, however it’s currently on my calendar: Miu is unveiling its cruise line in Paris with a supper-club event. Later on today, C line will be revealing its line. I can see it, though no photos will be released until it goes into shops in November. Ditto ProenzaSchouler and Chlo.
At that point I’ll be cycling back in style time (though forward in real time) to fall 2016, with couture. Enough is enough. I understand this is a time of unforeseeable weather patterns, but it seems to me that when a brand-new season starts, it’s time for the old one to end.